The History: The World’s First Black Tea
Lapsang Souchong is often cited as one of the earliest Chinese black (red) teas, commonly associated with the late Ming / early Qing period.
Legend has it that an army passing through the Wuyi Mountains camped at a tea factory. Their presence delayed the drying of the fresh leaves. To save the crop, the farmers sped up the drying process by burning local pine wood. The leaves absorbed the resinous smoke, creating a unique, bold flavor. The smoky style later became popular with overseas traders and drinkers.
Geography: The Mist of Tongmu Village
Tongmu Village within the Wuyi Nature Reserve is widely regarded as the original home of Lapsang Souchong, and “Zheng Shan” (Original Mountain) is typically used for tea made from within that protected core area.
- Zheng Shan (Original Mountain): Refers to tea grown within the strict boundaries of Tongmu.
- Souchong (Xiao Zhong): Refers to the “small leaf” variety of tea bush native to the area.
The village is high-altitude, secluded, and protected. Access can be restricted for non-residents, depending on local rules. Many drinkers associate Tongmu material with a natural “longan” fruit sweetness that is hard to replicate elsewhere.
Decoding the Styles: Smoked vs. Unsmoked
Many Westerners think all Lapsang is smoky, but the “Traditional” Chinese style has shifted.
1. Traditional Smoked (Yanyuan)
The classic “campfire” tea. It is dried in a multi-story wooden building called a Qinglou, where pine smoke rises through the floors.
- Profile: Intense pine smoke, campfire, dried longan fruit.
2. Unsmoked (Feiyan)
Highly popular in China today. It uses the same high-quality Tongmu leaves but omits the smoking step.
- Profile: Honey, chocolate, rose, and stone fruit. Much more delicate.
3. Jin Jun Mei (Golden Steeds)
A modern, ultra-premium spinoff made only from tiny buds. It is essentially the “prestige” version of Lapsang.
How to Identify Quality
A good Lapsang should never taste like a “liquid ashtray.”
| Feature | High-Quality (Premium) | Lower-Quality (Imitation) |
|---|---|---|
| Appearance | Tightly twisted, dark black-brown leaves; no dust. | Broken, grayish, or thick stems. |
| Aroma | Sweet pine smoke, dried fruit (longan), honey. | Acrid, chemical, or “burnt rubber” smell. |
| Liquor | Clear, bright orange or deep amber. | Dull, cloudy, or murky brown. |
| Taste | Sweet, cooling, smooth; smoke is a background note. | Harshly bitter, drying (astringent), or overly acidic. |
Reputable Brands & Where to Buy
True Tongmu Lapsang is expensive and rare. Be wary of very cheap versions labeled “Lapsang Souchong”—they are often low-grade tea from other regions sprayed with liquid smoke.
Reputable Specialized Brands:
- Zheng Shan Tang: The most prestigious brand, credited with inventing Jin Jun Mei.
- International-Friendly Online Shops:
- Wuyi Origin: Direct from the source in Tongmu village.
- Old Ways Tea: Excellent traditionally smoked and unsmoked versions.
- The Tea Hong: Focuses on the “Original Mountain” (Zheng Shan) quality.
- Verdant Tea: Great for small-batch, unsmoked Lapsang varieties.
Lapsang Souchong is a tea of extremes. If you want a bold adventure, try the Traditional Smoked; if you want to discover the true soul of Wuyi red tea, the Unsmoked versions are a revelation.